Visit to Lewis County

I spent the afternoon visiting the area around Cane Creek Lewis County the other day, site of the Cane Creek Massacre. To be honest I didn't really know what to expect. I have seen photos; some recent and some not. I have heard descriptions by missionaries writing from 100 years ago. I have talked with those who had been there and seen the site of the massacre. Regardless I was unprepared for how it would affect me.

The geography was really very similar to that of where I live now. The high lands are surprisingly level; plenty of space for farms on gentle undulating hills. And there are wide valleys cut by creeks such as the one cut by the East Fork of Cane Creek. I had imagined mountain hollows like I had seen in eastern Tennessee, where there is little room for farming. Consequently, I was having a hard time figuring out where Brother Condor's 300 acre farm was going to be. But after seeing the wide valley, I could tell quickly there was plenty of room in the Cane Creek valley itself.

Our first stop was the Lewis County Library. I had talked with several people who had been there and one or two who lived there once. But I knew nobody well enough to drop in and say "Hi." So I introduced myself to the librarian and explained what I was doing. Anyone who has been reading here long knows my secret fear when it comes to libraries. This time was no different. But there was more to my anxiety this time.

Leonard Nimoy once said he didn't want to be known for his part in Star Trek. He would rather have been a poet. Of course, now he cannot undo the past. I think it is something like this with Lewis County. Several histories I have read about the county never bring up the massacre. There are several things for which they wish to be known. The Mormon Massacre is not one of them.

At the library I was directed to a history room. It is a small library; perhaps 1200-1500 square feet. [It is bigger than the library in my city.] But a 300 sq ft room has been set aside just for county history. The room is well appointed with a large expensive table and a wall of historic books, most of which are genealogy. I was shown two books in particular. One by William Whitridge Hatch, who has done a considerable amount of research of how Mormons and others were mistreated in the Southern States. He has written at least 4 books on the subject, each containing a chapter on the Cane Creek Massacre. This book had an inscription to the director of the library, and the people of Lewis County, thanking her for her assistance. The other book was a generic history of Lewis County with a chapter on the Massacre. The former I had not seen before and asked for a photocopy. The latter I already had. As the librarian made the copy I scanned the rest of the collection. I saw a few other books which I knew contained other details about the massacre, but I decided not to point them out to the librarian.

As I left, the librarian gave the names of a couple of other historians currently working on the Massacre. As I had not seen their work before I was grateful for this find most of all. Lastly she gave me the name of the current owner of the land on which the massacre occurred. I'm hoping to write a letter asking permission for a visit.

I left the library and took my kids to the park down the street. They had been very good in the car and in the library waiting for me. The park was a mixture of new and old playground equipment. The new stuff was similar to what you will find in most suburban playgrounds. The old was unique and imaginative, albeit showing its age. My boys preferred the old to the new. I guess they take a little after me.

We left the center of town for Cane Creek, about 4 miles north on Tennessee Route 48. I had heard the land where the Condor farm once stood, as well as the Condor Cemetery, is on private property and not open for visitors. So I didn't really expect to see the site. But I wanted my own photo of the historic marker and a photo of the Creek itself. I have included them here.

The marker is at the intersection of Cane Creek Road and TN route 48. It is on the south corner, facing northeast so it would be easy to miss if you were coming from Hohenwald. An older Mormon resident of Nashville told me the sign had been knocked down several times and had to be frequently replaced. Of course, I have no evidence of the sign being mistreated. I'll have to add that to my list of legends needing verification.

Afterwards we drove by the only remaining grave in Tennessee I could visit: The grave of David Hinson. The Hinson Cemetery is near the intersection of Arnold Road and Brushy Road, a few miles north in Hickman County.

The cemetery is small with about 2 dozen graves and I couldn't shake the feeling I was trespassing. A chain link fence separated it from the neighboring farm, and it had its own entrance from the road. David Hinson's grave is on the far side. His wife is there on the same marker, though she died some years later. Also there are his parents' and one of his children with his wife. The marker itself looks quite modern, compared to the other 19th century grave stones. It was adorned with a tattered confederate battle flag and some fabric flowers. I was touched by the devotion of ancestors who after 125 years still attend his grave.

We were there about 5 minutes. After we got back in the car and started to drive away we were set upon by two dogs who intentions, I'm guessing, were not friendly. One even ran into the side of the car. We drove quickly back the way we came. The dogs only chased the car a few hundred feet. They did nothing to alleviate my anxiety.

After a visit to the Meriwether Lewis National Monument, (Lewis County is named for him. He died there in 1809 under suspicious circumstances) we drove home. I come away a little sobered by the anxiety I felt, real or imagined, during my visit. I'll go back, hopefully soon. But next time I'll know what to expect.